Sunday, June 19, 2011

June 12 - Market day in Aix-en-Provence

Having the whole day alone, I'm going to go on for a bit as I'm not sure how long my luck will last in blogging venture.  It is a gray day here in Mayenne and my host kindly left me with the run of their house as they made a visit to friends about 2 and 1/2 hours away.  I have a cute little bichon frize, Swanee (not so sure of that spelling), to keep me company (you will hopefully see pictures of her later in my blog).  I am sitting on a porch with a magnificent sun porch where I am looking into an organic hayfield and a light brown field of wheat.  There are nut trees and 3-year-old white cherry trees and an open barn where the distillation of the apple crop takes place in the fall.  There is a small apple orchard to my right and in the back of the house, 21 hives of bees as well as a farm pond with ducks and geese.  There is also a pregnant cat who shows up sometimes for dinner.   More later, but for now, here are my pictures of the farmer's market in Aix-en-Provence as well as a few pictures of the city.   We also had lunch that day in one of the two Japanese restaurants in Aix, according the man in the local information center - one of the oldest ones in the city that opened before Japanese food became so important in Aix.

Perhaps you will be bored by the many pictures of the market, but after living for two semesters in Mexico, I am totally fascinated by local markets.  In my next Wwoofing venture, I may even be selling cheese in one near Bretignolles-sur-Mer!  You can find everything in some of these markets - all kinds of local products - here in France, of course, lots of cheese, pate de foie gras, confit de carnard (canned duck meat (simmered in it's own juice and fat), all kinds of local fruits and veggies.  There are also venders who sell cloth and clothes, household china and kitchen gadgets, art, stamps, old model cars, antique books and sheet music.  Name an article, and you can find it in the market.  I have to say that I did "select" out of my pictures but perhaps I didn't weed out enough.

Because many people have a moped or motor cycle, there are parking spaces provided for such vehicles.  They also bob and weave in and out of both city traffic, passing between two lines of stopped cars.  The later drove me crazy as I tried to pass through the narrow streets of French cities and villages!


Behind the round, white onions, note the red oblong onions.  I was told it is a "heritage onion," one I used in almost everything I prepared while we were in our two-week self-catering rural "cave" (basement of house) in Aix


We were in Aix at strawberry time but perhaps there were also some raspberries locally as well.  The apricots were the best I have ever had - soft and oh so juicy!  I think the "granadas" pomagranets (oops - spelling) were perhaps local but I forgot to ask.  Of course in Aix one is not from Spain.  Here at the Helberts I have been picking a handful of raspberries to eat every day - from bush directly into mouth.  In my former gardening days, I had a huge patch of red raspberries with plenty left over to freeze.


The pineapples didn't looks so good, but in any case, that fruit is more to my daughter's liking.

 Lettuce anyone?  Or, how about some sausage?


My favorite - CHEESE - almost 300 DIFFERENT varieties in France!




Dried beans of all kinds


Olive oil - produced in many places in southern France as well as salted cod  


Peeled garlic, some in oil - basis, of course, for most Provencal dishes




 Flowers to the left


Herbs to the right


Veggies to the right

 Sign for the raspberries and            

Gooseberries below




Local pottery - colorful!


This man was selling old sheet music of old French songs - tattered and yellowed, but a remembrance of the past.  I wanted to buy some for my grandchildren, but I was afraid they would crumbling before reaching Florida.  He also had old books, stamps and drawings for sale.  I had decided to shop with the eyes and not try to take too much away in physical form.  I could spend hours in markets!



And then there were the antique cars to remind me of my grandson, Calum.  I have never had an interest in cars - period.  For me they just represent something that can become so easily damaged as we use them on the road.  But since Calum was born, my eyes are forever being drawn to the tiny cars he loves to play with so much.  Again, how much can one take away in an already too full suitcase?


But isn't that just a gorgeous fire truck?


 Perhaps one of my readers can identify this beauty.


Fashion students - Here's one for you!


Table cloths and other linens


I found these old ads very interesting.  We first saw them on the wall in the our hotel in Ales (near Nimes).  They folks in Ales had the old metal plaques from their parents' day of running the hotel.  Whether in metal or paper, they are a colorful reminder of the past.  Many advertise various products or hot travel spots.  Some have a political message as well.  These here in the Aix market were done in card board.







More linens


scarves



MORE CHEESE - YUM, YUM (just as expensive as in the States, but ever so much fresher!



Unfortunately we would be leaving shortly for our return to Paris and I couldn't buy but one of the yummy cheeses .  Then we were off to try to find the famous Japanese restaurant - Yoji.  Here Joe goes through an small portal on called Cours Mirabeau (not the one you drive on) 



At left Joe goes through a portal on Cours Mirabeau (not the Cours Mirabeau you can drive on).  It leads to the main road.  To the right a cafe on the way.








 To the left a typical tree-lined street and to the right one of the fountains on Cours Mirabeau.  Below the typical architecture of the city with it's decorative iron work.


France is heavily into recycling


And here we finally found Yogi (Japanese and Korean food) - as good as was predicted.  I had my own little grille at the table and Joe, who has become very fond of suchi, ordered that instead of his own little grill.


Complete with a lovely covered terrace garden, Yoji provides a cool oasis in the center of the city.  The food was as good as it looks.


We prepare for lunch with the usual warm towels (Joe puts on airs).




We look longingly at our neighbor's table before our food comes.




 Our post-lunch walk takes us past another of the ubiquitous parking places for motor cycles and at the right you get another look at the tree-lined streets where the tops of the trees almost touch providing a cool respite in summer.  Actually, since I have been in France, I have been wearing a sweater almost every day and have needed a blanket at night.  It has been a very dry spring in France to the point of destroying crops.  In some places in the south, the Feds have finally stepped in with some financial assistance.

We finally reach le Mazarin, the older part of town with the larger homes.

 
Lovely little turret


Square of the 4 dolphins



One of the lovely private homes - This one belonging to a medical doctor.


One of the many churches


More trees in a little square where we also visited the Musee Granet.  It was a BIG disappointment!  Most painting were Provincial painters - not famous and for the most part, one can see why not.


On the other hand, once we reached the church we found this gem of a stained glass window.


There are also many places under repair, be it in the city of in the little towns.   It was a lovely day! 


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