Thursday, July 28, 2011

Salines and Tuesday afternoon wine and cheese "reception"

On the way "home" (the goat farm), Odette was a bit sad that it would be her last night.  She had been at the farm long enough to learn how to do all the chores including all the steps to make cheese and to take charge of selling it at the Wednesday Sables d'Olonne market.

On the way we stopped to see the salt mining, done by two young families.  The area had been abandonned and they took on the job of restarting this small business that could give jobs to 2 families.

This is the entrance to the area where the salt is "captured."  The little cottage in the picture is the store where some of the salt is sold.


The salt water comes in from the sea through this series of sinuous canals.


Finally, we arrive closer to the cottage and can see the way the way the small pools have been set up where the large granules of salt will sink and the "fleur du sel," or the smaller particles of salt will float on the top of each pool and be harvested with a different "tool."


Below is the wooden tool used for the "gros sel" or large granules that sink to the bottom of each small pool.


The "harvest" of the large granules is kept under a sheet of heavy black plastic and put into bags with a shovel.


Below is a picture of their small shop where some of the salt is sold.


Most of the "bio" (organic) growers of honey, vegetables, meat, cheese, salt, have posters advertising various other eco-friendly areas.


Below is the website for their own business.


Here is a pile of gros sel that is mixed with too much earth to be used for human consumption.  It is used to feed to animals instead of the classic solid "salt licks" that I remember from my youth.


And below, you have a table covered with "la fleur" du sel, or the tiny grains that accumulate on top of each pool.  Many homes have both kinds of salt, the smaller grains used on the table (unrefined) and the larger ones in cooking.  No Mortons salt for these folks!


In the next picture are the "louches" (laddles) used to skim off the fleur du sel.  Odette knows more about the technique than I do as she helped in its harvest.  Our conversation strayed to other things as we talked with one of the men who does the harvesting.


Here you can see that the salt is still humid.  When it is sunny and good drying weather, the tables are uncovered and exposed to the sun.  Then, when the rain comes, they are covered.  I found myself wondering how many times the rain catches up with them and the drying process must then begin again. A question I forgot to ask.


It reminds me of our "crop" of New England snow.


Odette took me down the hill a bit to the canal where the salt comes in from the sea.  Here we found another "crop" that grows here - I think the name is "salicorn," but I must check on this.  They taste like pickles.


Not very good harvesting weather (there had been some rain - good for David's beets and cabbages, but not particularly helpful when you need to harvest the salt).  Some of the little piles of salt actually were washed away the weather was so bad.  In the next picture you can see the foam that has collected along one edge.


Biking is popular in the area and the land is pretty flat.  I don't think I would have made it beyond Bretignolles by bike, but Odette has biked the whole western coast of France with her husband.  Of course, she is my daughter's age.  I should have found out about Wwoofing much sooner and spent all my summers working somewhere in France or some Spanish-speaking country.  Not too late to look at continuing my Wwoofing experiences for a few more years!


Here's a good view of Bretignolles from the salines.


And here are the small hills of the fleur du sel.


Even without the sun, if one turns toward where the sun should be, it produces enough glare to make one's brow furrowed if one has forgotten to wear a cap.


By now you know my interest in dry toilets.  The two families are adding on a room to the store - a WC with a dry toilet (used with sawdust).  It's an old cabinet with a seat added and a place provided to the left to store the sawdust which one can get free from a saw mill.


And here is the other owner of the salt business.   At the time we were talking about the organic movement, especially about Fukuyama in the 1950s.  I wondered why I didn't know his name.  When I returned to David's I told him about our conversation and he went upstairs and brought down the book in French.  I (unfished - add)


As I turned to leave, I couldn't help taking another picture of Bretignolles from a distance.


When we finally reached home, Odette did some packing and a bit later David told us he was having a wine and cheese tasting for a group of retirees (hikers) who had walked from Sables d'Olonne (or was it just from Bretignolles)?  In any case, Odette and I got busy helping David get ready for this even which might bring him some new customers.  We took the table from the combined dining room/living room  plus the one usually kept outside (for eating when it is good weather).  Odette hurriedly tacked on some pretty paper with the aid of the proverbial scotch tape and then we cut bagettes and covered each "slice" with a chunk of fresh cheese and well as the "affine" (aged cheese).


The group arrived before we were finished so we continued to ready the plates of bread and cheese.  You can see some under the blue "mouche" (fly) cover as the flies are some of David's best "customers."


David tells them a bit about cheese making and then people ask questions.






After devouring the samples of both wine and cheese, there is a long line to buy some to take home.  I can't remember asking David how much cheese he sold, but I imagine it is a good way of increasing sales.


Here is the wine grower who brought over some wine.  He apparently sells it direct at his winery though unfortunately, I didn't get to see his vineyard.


And here, after everyone is gone, while Odette finishes her packing, I try out the hammock that no one else has had time for.  It looks like the eyes are closing.


Poor David has no time to rest as he must pick up Odette's "Wwoofing replacement."  Of course there are not any "replacement" Wwoofers.  Each Wwoofer is different and brings different life skills and personality to the "job." David usually takes only people who are very interested in changing  professions or are already in the cheese business and wish to learn new techniques.  At this writing I have not heard from Barbara (below) who joined us from Puerto Rico for three weeks.  One of the first places Odette and I took her when she arrived at the farm was to see Paquerette in her new "home."  By this time, piggy had become quite acclimated to her new "pen."  You can tell that Barbara likes Paquerette as much as Odette and I do!




Here Odette gives Paquerette some old pieces of bread soaked in goats' milk.



Odette is conscious of having to leave tomorrow but now she happily shares one of her favorite "pets" with the new arrival.  What a beautiful smile!  Even the sun doesn't furrow her brow as she revels in presenting big piggy to a new friend!


Then we take Barbara to meet the goats, of course the little ones first.  I will have to say goodbye in two days so I have mixed emotions as I remember the day I arrived and the little ones took a couple of bites out of my Mexican straw hat (I'm still hoping to embroider some flowers over the small holes).  I know I will miss the family of humans and animals have become home for such a short time, but that seems almost like forever in many ways.




And later in the evening, just before sunset, we take Barbara down to the sea.  Odette loves the sea and she and Baraba go way down the beach into the water together speaking Italian together, a language they both know from childhood but one I haven't yet acquired.





And Odette's last day at the farm is ending.

Tune in for two more blogs at the farm.

Tuesday, July 26, 2011

Tuesday - Sables d'Olonne docks and Ile de Penotte

Odette and I had to be at the docks at 6:00 in the morning for the tour of the "crier."  Actually, to really see the whole operation, one would have to take a tour at about 3 or 4 in the morning as that is when all the boats arrive to leave their catch.

We had a WONDERFUL guide who herself has worked her way up the ladder and now part of her job is to give these great tours.  Her name is Christine and she has taken a young woman under her wing who is working at the marketplace.  It was Odette who took notes on this trip, but unfortunately, I wasn't able to get a copy of her notes before she left.  Perhaps some day I will add some details with her help.




Left -  Meeting place for the in front of the Shell Museum.  Unfortunately, that was a place I wanted to visit but didn't have time to do.
To the right - entrance to the fish market.
Just inside the market they keep some live samples of the fish that comes through their doors.

Fish are sold by the lot.  Actually, most of the sales are done at 3 or 4 in the morning but that's not a time that it's convenient for most "tourists" to take a tour.  Special tours CAN be arranged for those hours, but I think it has taken Christine a long time to even get the later tours on the docket.


There was quite a large group of tourists but some of the people wondering around were workers at the fish market and some were also venders who wanted to bid on the remaining fish.




First on the agenda was to look at the fish that was left in the lots for sale.  There were still fishmongers around looking to buy unsold lots and there was a lot of noise.  I wasn't always able to hear the explanations about the different kinds of fish as well as the routine at the market.  I'm hoping that Odette will fill in some of the holes as she was the one who took notes during this trip.

Below are some tiny squid.  I was rather sad to see them in this state as I thought back to my snorkling trip to Belize 4 years ago with my friend Sigrid when I saw about 8 of them just hanging like tiny little white flags in the water.  What a sight!  Now, I am less eager to eat them.



This must be some sort of crab, but I didn't hear the conversation.


The "crier" (to cry out) (fishmarket) used to be less mechanized, but below you will see the electronic board that roles along to record the bids.  It starts at a high price and the salesmen have to be on their toes if they want to bid on a lot.  The information on the board not only has the price but the provence (which fishing boat) as well as the type of fish and how much in each lot.



I stepped toward one of the open doors at the dock to take some pictures of the fishing boats.  As you will see, there are both large and small boats.





As I mentioned earlier, Christine is not only the tour guide but has worked about 25 years here at the port.  She used to have a full time job working in the middle of the night to weigh in and measure the incoming fish.  Now, the jobs are not as plentiful and many people only work part time.  The schedule is posted the day before as the ships must let the port know how much tonnage is arriving.

The reason for some of the "leftovers" at 6:00 in the morning is that apparently ship captains are not in touch with each other as to how many of what kind of fish they are going to bring to market.  Over the years there are some kinds of fish that are becoming scarcer (not news to those of us tuned in to what happens when overfishing of species is not well regulated).  Then there are some fish that are are either not as popular or that are increasing, perhaps due to lack of predators.  Help, Odette!  Perhaps you have something to add here.

Below Christine explains how the workers don their white clothes and boots and use this tray to measure the legal length of each fish.  They must reject any than are undersized.  The women who work here get a feel for those fisherman who regularly do not respect the rules and must be reported to the officials.


The edge of the table shows the different sizes that are acceptable.  Of course those working here have to know the limit on each kind of fish.





Below on the work sheets is information on total tonnage and the workforce needed to process each day.  About 6 or 7 in the morning those who might have a job for the next day can check the schedule.  Not an easy life for those who work here - not for the fisherman nor for those who receive the fish at the docks and do the triage.



I liked these little signed about the dress code and of course the necessary hygiene.



At the end of the tour, we were shown a movie on the different procedures as well as some footage of the life on the sea as it used to be.  I asked if this film were available and Christine responded that she had had enough difficulty getting the officials to allow it to be shown during the tour.  She hoped to work on making available to interested tourists in the future.  I have to say it was one of the most informative "factory" tours I have ever taken.

The room in which we viewed the film was covered with scenes from the "olden" days.  Her are a couple of those pictures.




After the tour was over, we decided to take another look at Ile Penotte.  Of course Odette had been there as had I, but she had not had her camera with her, and mine ran out of "juice" while I was there.  


The wall below was not quite finished.







An early morning but the tourism was not over.  Odette had promised to take me to visit the Salines (salt mines) where she had "apprenticed" herself out for a couple of afternoons to find out how the salt was collected.  Then on Tuesday late afternoon, David had a wine and cheese reception for a group of retired residents (hikers) of the Bretignoles area - a group to which his mother-in-law belongs. 

See you at the next blog